Feeding Bearded Dragons: Essential Guide to Providing Your Beardie a Healthy Diet

Feeding your bearded dragons seems to be an easy process right? Many lizard owners will supply a food dish full of 'whatever' veggies they have in the fridge, fill up a water dish, and toss in some insects on occasion. They may even decide to use dry food pellets that can be purchased from nearly every pet supply store. This diet, as you may have guessed, will ultimately lead to poor health.

Some of this problem is caused by uninformed first-time owners who make an impulse purchase of a "cool looking" lizard they saw while picking up dog food at their nearest 'super' pet store. Now obviously these first-timers have no idea on how to provide proper care for a bearded dragon, so they turn to the 'expert' pet store clerk for answers.

This clerk will most likely point them in the direction of the packaged products (pellets and dried insects) once the conversation becomes focused on food. They will then inform the customer that beardies will also eat crickets and vegetables and to have a nice day.

Now don't get me wrong, it's not that this information is incorrect...it's just lacking detail. This is what leads keepers to believe that their bearded dragon's diet is fine, when in reality it is severely lacking vital nutrients.

"So what am I supposed to feed my lizard?"

Good question. Before we get to specific foods let's first go over a few basic guidelines that should be followed when feeding any beardie.


All food items must be smaller than the space between the eyes. This prevents choking and digestion issues.
Offer as many feeder insects as the lizard will eat within 10-15 minutes for each feeding.
Remove any uneaten insects. You don't need them defecating in your enclosure, or gnawing on your pet.
Have a water dish available at all times. Not all dragons will drink from a dish and you may need to use an eye dropper if it appears your lizard is becoming dehydrated.
Mist all plant matter to enhance their hydration value. This is how beardies get their main source of liquids.
"Gut load" all feeder insects 24-48 hours in advance of feeding them to your lizard. Gut loading is the process of feeding high-nutrient items to your insects, making them a much healthier meal.
"Dust" all insects before feeding. This is the process of coating the insects with a multivitamin, or calcium supplement before giving them to your beardie.

Staple Insects include: crickets, superworms, silkworms, calciworms, even roaches. Make sure all insects are of proper size.

Staple Vegetables include: dark greens such as collard, mustard, dandelion, turnip and kale. All varieties of squash may also be offered as a daily staple along with cactus pads.

Fruits that may be offered on occasion include: apples, fresh blue and blackberries, pineapple, mango, fresh strawberries and cantaloupe.

The amount of feedings per day, the insect-to-veggies ratio, and the amount of supplements all depends on the age of your dragon. You will find that younger dragons may ignore their veggies, while adults rarely turn them down.

Follow these guidelines for feeder insects and vitamin supplements:


Babies - (0-6 months) Feeder insects 2-3 times daily. Dust insects with calcium everyday and multivitamin supplement 4-5 times a week.
Juveniles - (6-10 months) 1-2 times daily. Calcium daily, multivitamin 4-5x
Sub-adult - (10-14 months) 1 time a day. Calcium 5x weekly, multivitamin 3x
Adult - (over 14 months) Offer feeders every other day or so depending on your dragon's appetite for them. Calcium 5-6x, multivitamin 3x.

When feeding bearded dragons it is critical to provide the best diet that is available to them. As their owners, we have taken on that responsibility and our pets depend on us.

To Healthy Reptiles,

Joselyn Rhodes

A Holistic Vet's Guide to Pet Food, Part I - Who's in Charge?

In 2007, when thousands of pets were sickened or killed by pet food contamination, and the recalls went on for months, the pet food industry claimed that it was highly regulated and therefore trustworthy. Clearly, that was then and still is not true. There are regulations that apply to pet food, but nearly all of them apply only to the post-production period-that is, labels, marketing, and advertising. What goes into pet food and how it is made is virtually unregulated. And yet, the labels can provide a great deal of information about that very process, tell you about the quality of the food, and help you decide which ones to avoid and which are the best and healthiest food for your pets.

Despite all the "small print" and vague terms on the average pet food label, the rules governing pet food labels are actually quite simple. Once you know these few basic rules, you'll be scanning the label like a pro and actually understanding what it says, what it means, and whether it's good for your pet.

First, let's take a look at who makes the rules. There are two primary groups involved: state governments and the federal government. At the federal level, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) are involved. At the state level, the state agriculture department in most states (a different department in a few states) designates one or more of its feed control officials--the folks that inspect all animal feed, including pet food--to participate. The body to which these representatives belong is called the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). AAFCO is not itself a regulatory body and does not do any tests or enforce any laws.

Every year, AAFCO has meetings to discuss potentially needed changes, and publishes a book containing everything an animal feed or pet food maker needs to know: what nutrient levels are needed in a food, the rules governing labels, and how to conduct tests. These are "model" regulations that can then be adopted by the states, where they then become law. Only about half the states have actually adopted the AAFCO rules; and several others have something similar on the books. However, in order to ship nationally, all major pet food companies follow the AAFCO guidelines in order to avoid problems when the inspectors check out their foods.

There is a lot of confusion about AAFCO, and many writers have accused the organization of being "the fox guarding the henhouse" because their book lists not only the government officials, but also a long list of "advisors" from the industry, including many pet food companies. However, these advisors are basically just lobbyists; they do have some influence with the officials, just like any government lobbyist, but they don't make the rules. The state and federal representatives are the only voting members with power to change the rules. AAFCO takes its consumer protection role seriously and has rejected many attempts by the pet food industry to change ingredient names, label requirements, and other items that would make it harder for the consumer to make informed choices.

So what does this all mean for your pet? First, this knowledge helps you understand how laws and rules do and do not protect your pet. And second--and perhaps more importantly--as a result of this understanding, you'll be better equipped to evaluate other information you might find in books or on the internet. After all, those who have a false concept of how pet food regulation actually works are likely to be wrong about other things as well--so you probably shouldn't take their advice!

In the next article: all the useful information you can get from the label.

Dr. Jean Hofve is a retired holistic veterinarian with a special interest in nutrition and behavior. Her informational website, http://www.littlebigcat.com, features an extensive free article library on feline health and pet nutrition, as well as a free e-newsletter. Dr. Hofve founded Spirit Essences Holistic Remedies for Animals http://www.spiritessence.com in 1995; and it remains the only line of flower essence formulas designed by a veterinarian. She is a certified Medicine Woman within the Nemenhah Native American Traditional Organization who uses holistic remedies as a part of body-mind-spiritual healing.

Basic Guide to Parrot Feeding

Parrot feeding is one of the most important things that a first-time parrot owner should learn. Apart from a roomy cage, diet is one of the things that this type of bird is very particular about. If you want your pet to do tricks, mimic words (and even sentences), and avoid making shrieking sounds, you have to make sure that they are happy, well-fed and properly hydrated. Below are some of the things that you need to know when it comes to food that parrots eat.

When parrot feeding, variety can be quite important for this type of bird. In the wild, this bird usually gets all its nutrients by foraging in the forest. However, when in captivity, some owners tend to feed parrots seeds and nuts alone, which are not enough because a parrot needs a balanced diet. It would be best to add fruits, vegetables, and even cooked rice and corn because these are good sources of vitamins, minerals and carbohydrates. After feeding, do not forget to remove uneaten food on the tray, especially the raw and cooked food, because this can be a breeding ground for germs and bacteria that can make your pet sick.

You should also not forget that water is an essential part of parrot feeding. Many pet owners, especially the new ones, forget to replenish the water container for their pets. Like humans, this type of bird can also become dehydrated. Besides, since the bird is inside the cage, it cannot do anything but wait for the food and drinks that the owner serves. You really do not have to worry too much about where to get the food for your parrot. Nowadays, you can readily buy complete parrot food formula (mixture of grains, seeds, dried fruits and vegetables). There are even foods that are especially made for particular types of parrots, so feeding your pet does not have to give you headaches.

Also, there is really nothing wrong with using table food as a component of your parrot feeding. In fact, your parrot will welcome the taste of small bits of meat and even a chunk of cake once in a while. However, make sure that the food that you give your pet is small and easy to swallow. There are also some foods that you should absolutely not give your beloved bird. Some of the things that are believed to be harmful for your parrot include caffeine-rich foods, chocolate, avocado, and anything that is too sweet or too salty.

Gideon Williams is a parrot care expert.

Complete Turtle Care Guide - How to Help Your Pet Turtle Live a Long and Happy Life

Caring for your turtle the right way is important to help it live a long and healthy life. Below are some of the basics of pet turtle care.

What to Feed Your Turtle

Standard pet turtle are naturally herbivores, living on a diet of vegetables such as lettuce, cabbage, carrots or leafy vegetables. They also eat fruits such as berries. You can also feed your turtle earthworms or live insects such as crickets, beetles or spiders. Commercial turtle food is available at pet stores if you feel your turtle isn't getting all of the nutrients it needs. Keep in mind that turtles can be picky eaters sometimes, so you'll have to find what works for your turtle. The age of your turtle may also determine how often you feed them.

How Often Do I Feed My Turtle?

How often you feed your turtle depends on a variety of factors. Most healthy turtles are fine being fed every other day or three times a week. If your turtle is pregnant she will need to be fed more often.

What's The Right Environment for My Pet Turtle

For indoor turtles, a 20-50 gallon aquarium should suffice. The temperature should be about 80 degrees fahrenheit, although you can lower it slightly at night to try and imitate a more natural environment. Make sure there is plenty of water and try to make it as pure as possible. Lighting is also important. Turtles need sunlight for vitamin production and proper bone growth. If the turtles don't get natural sunlight, buy a fluorescent light or other specially designed lights. These may be available at your pet store. Finally, keep out things that could harm the turtle if they eat it, as things like woods chips or other organic materials can be dangerous to your turtle's health. If your turtle is an outdoor turtle, you'll need to make sure they have a proper environment as well. See my other articles for more information on caring for your outdoor turtle.

Other Resources

Check out my other articles on caring for your pet turtle. There are also other free turtle care guides available. You can also find great information in comprehensive turtle care guides for a small cost.

Did you find those tips on pet turtle care useful? I've been a turtle lover since my childhood and I've written other resources you can find on how to care for your turtle. You can click on the lens above. It will link you to my other free resources that will hopefully answer most of your questions on pet turtle care.

The best resources that I've used can be found at [http://www.turtlecaresite.com] There you can purchase a course that will teach you everything you need to know about how to care for your pet turtle. It goes into more detail than I can here and it is probably the only resource you'll ever need. It is also reasonably priced and the information you'll get is well worth it. Click on the link below to visit their site. One thing that I've found is that you can never know too much about your pet turtle and the more you know the happier you'll both be.

Quickstart Guide to Making Your Own Pet Food at Home

As a pet owner, no doubt you want to give your dog or cat the best care possible. And caring for your pet means feeding him the best diet you can. By making your own pet foods, you'll be saving money, up to 80%. And to top it off, it's easy; making pet food at home is probably a lot less time-consuming than you may have thought. With hundreds of websites offering free pet food recipes online, it's now easier than ever to make your own pet food.

To prepare healthy and nutritious food for your pet you should study your pet's natural habitat and food sources, and then prepare foods that most closely resemble their own natural or original diet.

Animals, because they are color blind, choose their foods by smell. Most dogs like gamey flavors best, as well as liver, fat, garlic, onions, horsemeat, lamb, beef, cheese and fish. Cats enjoy chicken, liver, fish, turkey, lamb, and yeast, and prefer fresh to aged flavors.

Cats are fussy eaters and it is not wise to continually feed them their favorite foods. Soon they will refuse to eat anything else; it is your job to see your cat has a balanced diet.

Animals do not need salt added to their diet as the natural salt in the food is enough for them.

Dogs may eat any vegetable they want, but cats should not have any starchy veggies, like peas and corn. Some dogs and cats even enjoy fruits!

It's a good idea to always add a grain, such as Kibble, wheat germ, cooked oatmeal or whole wheat bread to meat dinners. For dogs use 75% carbohydrate foods (grains and vegetables) to 25% meat; for cats use half carbohydrate foods to half meat.

You will find, once you begin making your own pet foods, that it is really relatively simple and you will save some money as well. Remember that all pet foods should be served at room temperature; don't serve food cold from the refrigerator nor hot from the stove.

Homemade pet food should take a ridiculously small amount of your time. As a general guide meats should be raw and vegetables must be finely chopped in a food processor or by a hand grater.

When it comes time for feeding, it is important that you let your dogs and cats eat as much as they want at the time of feeding. Once their body becomes nutritionally satiated, they will cut their food intake, sometimes by half the amount, and go on a maintenance diet. Incidentally, you should know that cats should be fed three times a day, while an adult dog needs only one meal a day.

To get started, find a good book with pet food recipes and use it to start preparing simple meals. You can also get free recipes from many websites online. If preparing your own pet food is not an option for you visit the website below for some healthy pet food http://www.pet-care-supplies.co.uk/food/

Copyright © 2005. Bridget Mwape of [http://www.pet-care-supplies.co.uk/] which offers thousands of products to help you care for your pets. This article may be reprinted as long as all the above links are active and clickable and this author box (byline) is not edited.

Guide to Caring For an Exotic Pet Snake For Beginner

Having exotic snakes as pets is becoming common nowadays. This is primarily because many people who have been taking care of one assert that snakes are attractive and can be quite tame, contrary to popular belief.

In spite of this, snakes remain to be not for everyone as care of snakes is quite complex. Just like in the case of having other types of exotic animals, commitment is very essential. Thus, prior to acquiring one, it is best to have the right information about them such as behavioral characteristics, dietary and habitat requirements, and other pertinent details. Only after which should you decide if you really are capable of having one.

There are several snakes species may be considered as pets but the most common are garter snakes and pythons. For first-time owners that are inexperience with snakes, corn snakes, king snakes, and ball pythons are, in fact, most suitable as these are gentle and meeting their diet and environmental needs is not as difficult as for some other species. These snakes are relatively small. Ball pythons tend to difficult to feed, because sometimes they stop eating for months at a time. If you are interesting in acquiring a ball python, make sure it is captive breed, and used to feed with killed prey.

On the other hand, if you are a beginner, don't think about acquiring Burmese pythons, red-tailed boas, tree boas or pythons, water snakes and other wild caught snakes as pets, as they can really be dangerous especially when not handled properly. If you choose Burmese pythons and red-tailed boas, you may require assistance for handling and feeding, due to their size and strength. Tree boas and pythons tend to have very strict temperature and humidity requirements, and water snakes have very specific care requirements too. Wild caught snakes tend to be nervous, prone to illness, and difficult to feed in captivity.

The appropriate diet and living area vary with different species. Generally, though, in creating an artificial environment for them, take note of security as they tend to get out of any enclosure. Check for gaps and the strength of the habitat itself.

Otherwise, you shall be putting others in danger as well as incurring liabilities. Also, check if there is enough space for them to move around. The size of the space must correspond well to the size of your pet.

As all snakes are carnivorous, rodents like mice and rats are the best food for them. It is recommended to give them pre-killed ones so as to protect them from possible injuries caused by their prey when alive. This especially happens when the prey is given to them while they are not yet hungry and unwilling to attack. On your part, it would likewise be more convenient to have these killed rodents in a freezer than keep another habitat just for them. Snakes like anacondas and reticulated pythons aren't recommended as pets, as these snakes are huge, have poor temperaments and potentially dangerous.

Snakes care, no matter what you choose as your pet, has indeed never been easy. For pet snakes, your responsibility doesn't end when you have chosen the species. You should be familiar with appropriate care and feeding, the behavioral characteristic, and the commitment to keep the pet. It is actually just the beginning of a long-term complex relationship.

Avicenna has written various articles about exotic pets [http://www.1st-exoticpet.com/] related topics, including Pet snake [http://www.1st-exoticpet.com/exotic-pet-snake/index.php], turtles and more

Moving Guide: Moving with Pets

Americans and their loved pets move on average every seven years. If you have a pet or pets, remember that they also experience stress, particularly from moving. In many cases, moving can be even more stressful on pets, as the home is their habitat. Pets can also become very frightened when faced with unfamiliar situations. Careful organization and planning can make the moving process easier and less stressful for both you and your pet. Our guide offers tips and advice to help you and your pet through this process.

Pet travel warning

o Never move a sick pet - the move may aggravate his symptoms and be dangerous to his health.

o The Animal Welfare Act makes it illegal to transport puppies and kittens less than eight weeks old by air.

o Pets cannot be moved on a moving van with your household belongings.

o Pets are generally not allowed on trains or buses, unless they're guide-dogs accompanying blind or otherwise impaired persons.

o Book a direct flight if you are traveling by plane. If your pet is traveling in freight he may be sitting outside with the freight for a long period of time between flights and as the freight is being moved from plane to plane. If the weather is either too hot or too cold your pet will suffer. An insulated crate will certainly help this situation if it cannot be avoided.

Air Transport

You may transport your pet by air either accompanying you or as air freight. Some airlines provide counter-to-counter service so your pet will be carried on and off the plane by an airline employee. Remember, not all airlines accept pets for transportation, so be sure to inquire when you are making your travel arrangements. Also be sure to check about charges and insurance charges for transporting your pet.

It is important that you book your air travel as early as possible. Airlines that accept pets for transportation will have specific regulations and guidelines regardless of whether the pets are accompanied or unaccompanied. For example, you may be required to be at the airport several hours in advance of the flight to check your pet in and your pet may need a special crate. The airline may be able to provide to you a crate for the trip, or you may have to purchase one from the airline.

The airline will have guidelines on the crate types allowed and your local pet supply company will be able to sell you the required crate. You pet should be able to stand and turn around with ease and there should be adequate ventilation. The bottom of the crate should be padded with newspaper or other absorbent material. Add a favorite toy on move day to give a sense of security. Try to get your pet accustomed to the crate at home before the big day.

On move day, feed and water your pet at least 5 hrs before the flight departure time and water again at least 2 hours before departure. Remember to administer any medication or veterinarian-recommended tranquilizers before departure. When you arrive at the airport, exercise your pet and check that you have provided all the necessary information to airline staff regarding your name, correct new address and alternate contact name in case of emergency.

Some airlines allow passengers to bring pets into the cabin with them, provided they fall within a specific size range and stay in a carrier for the duration of the flight.

By road - In a motor vehicle

Unless you are planning a very short road trip, do not feed or water your pet for a couple of hours before leaving. You may decide to put your pet in a crate during the road trip, but be sure he is able to stand and turn around with ease and that there is adequate ventilation. The bottom of the crate should be padded with newspaper, towels or other absorbent and cushioning material. Adding a favorite toy will help give a sense of security. Exercise your pet regularly during the road trip, but always use a leash because your furry friend can easily get lost or hit by a car if he wanders off.

Do not let your pet hang his head out the window while the car is moving. While many dogs love to do this, it can cause sore eyes, ears or throat. And, never let the windows down so far that your pet can jump out.

Warning

Never leave a pet in a hot car during the summer or in a cold car in the winter. Temperatures inside a car with closed windows escalate dramatically when it's parked in the sun. Even if it's pleasant outside, it takes only a few moments to reach over 100 degrees inside the car - which can be fatal for small occupants. If you absolutely have to leave your pet briefly, and the day is hot, park in the shade, lock the car doors and crack the windows open several inches to provide cross-ventilation. Check on him regularly. If the day is very hot, it is best not to leave your pet in the car at all.

Pet's travel bag

Don't forget to pack a travel bag for your pet! Following is a list of items you may wish to include;

o Food and can opener

o Food and water dishes

o Any medication your pets needs

o Treats

o Favorite toys

o Leash

o Grooming brush

o Bags to clean up after your pet

o Newspapers

o Cleaner and paper towel

Whatever mode of transport you use for your pet, make sure you are in compliance with state and local regulations for animals in your destination city, along with current copies of.

o ID tags

o Health records

Pets ID tags

The state where you are moving may have different laws regarding animals and their entry across state lines. It is important that you understand the requirements so that you can comply with them, so contact the state veterinarian for specific information. It is not uncommon for pets to need an entry permit in order to enter a new state. As well, in many towns and cities the number of pets per household may be limited. You will be required to obtain a local license for your pet within a certain deadline, such as 30 days, so find out what it is. You don't want to pay a fine for not keeping your pet's license current!

Health

You may need to obtain a health certificate for your pet from a licensed veterinarian and this can be used in the event it is required for entry to your new home state. The Department of Agriculture may request to see the health cert at your destination airport or could even be patrolling the highways if you are driving. A health cert is generally valid for 10 days, so be sure to have the inspection scheduled just before you move. The veterinarian will conduct a complete physical examination of your pet and check that he is current with all inoculations.

Dogs

Whether traveling by air or by car, moving can be even more stressful for a dog than for a human, although some dogs adapt better than others. Hold off on packing your dog's bedding and toys until the last moment so that he can be comforted by the presence of familiar things. If you're traveling a long way, avoid feeding your dog for 12 hours before the journey in order to prevent travel sickness. If you know your dog suffers from travel sickness, ask your veterinary surgeon about medication.

If you plan on flying to your new home, do your best to book a direct flight. If your dog has to be transported by freight and the flight is not direct he may have to sit out in the hot or cold weather as the freight is boarded to the new flight. Check with the airlines for details. If your dog is small enough, he may be able to travel in the passenger cabin with you. He will need a special pet carrier, which you can purchase at your local pet store. Ask the airline what crate specifications they require.

If traveling by car, have your dog's nails cut to avoid damage to the upholstery. Carry an adequate supply of plastic bags and use these to clean up after your pet at any rest stops you use. Never let your dog hang his head out the window of a car when it' s moving. Even though most dogs love to do this, it can cause sore eyes, ears or throat.

Never leave your pet alone in a car, especially in hot weather. The temperature inside the car can quickly rise to an unbearable level, even on what feels like a pleasant afternoon.

Once you arrive at your destination, be sure to get your dog back in to his routine of eating and exercise. If you have moved to an apartment building and your pet dog was used to having a yard to play in, you'll need to be extra considerate. Walk your dog more frequently, at least until he gets used to his new living situation. Be patient and make allowances for indoor "accidents." Don't punish your pooch, as this may make the problem worse. Clean the mess to remove the soil and smell. Once your dog has settled in, the accidents should stop. Use positive reinforcement to teach him where he needs to go. Always praise him when he relieves himself in the correct place.

One way to help your dog settle in more quickly is to create a comfortable sleeping area for him. If your new home has a yard, check the fencing to make sure that it is secure, of sufficient height and 'hole-free' before letting your dog run loose. If your dog is able to escape, exercise him on a lead until you are able to make the necessary improvements.

Cats

It's commonly accepted that cats get very attached to places and typically hate to move. Cats get particularly comfortable with routine, and don't like their environment to change. This can make moving especially difficult for humans and their cats.

In the days leading up to your move, try to keep your pet's routine as normal as possible. It is best to crate your cat during the moving process, and it may be helpful to ask a friend or family member to keep an eye him.

If you are traveling by air, you may need to purchase an airline-approved carrier for you cat. You airline should be able to provide you with all the details. If you are traveling by car you may also want to use a crate or carrier so your cat cannot roam about the car, or escape through an open window or door.

Once you are in your new location, be careful to keep your cat indoors until he becomes comfortable in his new surroundings. Do not allow your cat outdoors, because he may try to return to you old home ... and that's obviously dangerous for him, especially if you've moved far away. Supervised outings are advised until your pet gets used to your new home. You can use a long leash on your cat and connect it to a stake in the ground, allowing your pet to wander the length of the leash for the first few days. Let your cat explore all the rooms of the house and be sure to check that outside doors and windows are closed before you begin.

Birds and Small Pets

Of all pets, birds are probably the most sensitive to changes in temperature and environment. Your pet bird can be moved in the cage in which it lives. When you are moving with your pet bird, be sure to use a cover for the cage. This can keep the bird calm and protect it from drafts. Place the cage in a shallow box to collect any gravel, feathers or droppings that may spill during transit. Remove any containers of food and water before moving the cage to avoid spills en route. Do feed and water your bird at its regular times, as birds, like all small animals, can become dehydrated very quickly in warm weather.

Some states require a health cert for birds entering the state. The USDA may inspect this cert either at the airport or during routine roadway inspections. Have your pet bird inspected by your veterinarian prior to traveling. Some health certificates are valid for a brief period of time. Ten 10 days is a common window for a health certificate.

Horses

There are several ways to transport horses. Your horse can be transported by air freight, by towing a trailer or by hiring a specialized horse transporting company. The horse transport company can use either air or road to transport horses.

By Air

Many airlines accept horses as air freight. In general, they will only transport horses on direct flights. You will be required to have a stall constructed to the airline's specifications, and you will need to ensure your horse has the necessary health checks completed prior to moving to your new home state. Remember that requirements vary by state, and airlines will request a health certificate. The USDA may also be at the destination airport conducting inspections and may request to see the health certificate.

By Road

Depending on the distance you need to travel, towing your horse in a trailer behind your car or truck may be an option. If you do not own a trailer, you may consider renting one, but you'll want to be sure you're experienced enough to safely load and trailer your horse. You can also pack tack and feed in the trailer.

If your trip requires overnight stays you will need to book stables en route for your horse. These stables will require a health certificates appropriate to horses only, and if they do not you probably don't want to board your horse there. Your veterinarian should be aware of the applicable laws of the different states and will be able to provide you with the necessary health certificates. (Contact information regarding states entry requirements is at the end of this guide.)

If you are unable to find a stable or lodgings for your horse in close proximity to your hotel, inquire whether the hotel will allow you to keep the trailer in the parking lot overnight. In inclement weather this is not advisable. Feed and water your horse per the normal routine and clean out the stall when you have an overnight stop.

Reptiles

Most states have strict government regulations regarding the entry of reptiles. See the states regulatory contact list at the end of this guide to find out what you need to do before moving your reptile from state to state.

As a general rule, the carrier that a reptile is transported in needs to be kept moist. Place the reptile in a cloth bag and fasten the top of the bag, making sure to leave the reptile enough room to move about, then place the bag in the shipping container. Use foam peanuts for cushioning and place damp paper or cloth in the shipper to keep the environment moist. Make sure there are air holes in the shipper for ventilation. If you are traveling overnight with your reptile you may need to place him in the tub of your hotel room at night for a nice long soak. Check if the hotel allows pets first.

Do not ship reptiles in excessively hot or cold weather, as their shipping container may be left outside for periods of time, leading to stress and possibly death.

Snakes must be handled with extra care, especially if they are venomous. Most airlines require double crating for snakes, which means putting the snake in one crate and then placing this crate in another, larger crate. Adequate ventilation is a must. The airline may provide you with stickers to put on all sides of the crate and you will need to write the type of snake on this label. You should also write on the sticker whether the snake is venomous or not.

**Warning

Remember to keep the surroundings of all reptiles moist, but not wet. Placing a damp cloth inside the container is one of the best ways to keep your reptile's environment appropriately moist during transit.

Fish

Fish are notoriously difficult to move safely from one location to another, but it can be done effectively and efficiently with some planning. It is advisable to sell or give away as many fish as you can before you move to help ease the burden. However if this is not an option, this guide will help you understand what you need to do.

Depending on the size of your aquarium, and the number and type of fish you have, it may be easier to separate them into a several smaller tanks. If the aquarium is 5 gallons or less it may be just as easy to move the entire aquarium. Place some cellophane over the top of the aquarium and remove all heaters and aerators. Place the container in a cooler box or Styrofoam container to regulate the temperature and keep it constant for up to 48 hours. Be sure to open the cellophane every four to five hours to change and refresh the air. This option may be the best for tropical fish, which don't do well in smaller containers with overcrowding or sudden changes in water and temperature.

Never leave the container in the car overnight, as the temperature changes may be too drastic for the fish. If you plan to be traveling to your destination for a couple of days with your fish it is advisable to purchase a portable aerator to keep the water well oxygenated. Always pack your aquarium last in the moving truck so that you can unload it quickly at your destination.

If you separate your fish into smaller containers or fish bags, you should try to use the aquarium water in order to keep the environment as constant as possible. In the event you do not have enough water for all the smaller containers, add fresh or saltwater appropriate to the type of fish. It is advisable to allow each container of water to settle for a few hours after filling. If you have only a small number of fish and are moving a short driving distance, you can move the fish to their new location by using plastic bags half-filled with water and half-filled with air. As a general guideline, each fish should have at least 1-2 gallons of water. To maintain the temperature, place the bags in an insulated container or Styrofoam container.

Most fish can go without food for a couple of days without any problems, but it is important to add healing agents to the water, as the fish may become bruised en route. This is not uncommon and you can purchase healing agents at your local pet supply store.

When you arrive at your destination set up the aquarium as quickly as possible. You may need to treat the water to neutralize any chemicals; your local pet store can advise you of any treatments the local water may need.

Turn the aerator on for a while, and then add slowly and gently add the fish to the tank one at a time. Wait until the water settles, and feed them as usual.

New Community

PLEASE, PLEASE be responsible when you move and check beforehand with your new community to find out if pets are allowed. Some apartment and condominium complexes may not allow pets, and you certainly don't want to find that out on moving day.

Some of the most common reasons that people leave their pets with shelters are "we are moving "and "my landlord doesn't allow pets." Remember, pets do not know why their owners are leaving them behind, so do your homework beforehand to save all that heartbreak. Consider your options carefully, as pets should be considered a lifetime commitment. If you are absolutely unable to take your pet with you, you owe it to this creature to find him a good home.

State and local regulations

You need to make sure that your pet has some sort of easily read ID attached to its body. For dogs and cats this can be a collar, while a tag around the leg is appropriate for birds. The ID tag should have your pet's name, destination address, your name and telephone number. It is also a good idea to have an alternate's name and number on the tags in the event that somebody finds your lost pet and is unable to get in touch with you. You should also have rabies tags for your pet; depending on the state where you live this will most likely be a requirement. For air travel, your pet may be required to wear special travel tags, which the airline will provide.

For more guides, visit: BananaMoving.Com. Find and compare moving companies, get free moving quotes. BananaMoving.com provides a one stop shop for all your moving and storage needs.

Protecting the Smallest Member of Your Family: A Step-by-step Guide to Pet Insurance

Let's face it - Fido and Fluffy are an important part of your family. Do you want to have to assign a dollar value to them if they become sick or injured?

That may well be the case if you don't have pet health insurance. Rising veterinary costs mean that pet owners can pay hundreds - and even thousands - of dollars for their pets' health problems. As the bills stack up, uninsured pet owners must determine how much they are willing to spend on their animal friend. It can be a heartbreaking decision to make.

Much like insurance for health, cars and homes, pet insurance helps people put a little money away now to avoid a major payout later. Coverage and cost vary, so it's important to thoroughly research the options if you decide to insure your pet.

Step one: Determine if Pet Insurance is Right for You

When people decide to get a pet, they often don't consider how they will deal with the inevitable unexpected illnesses or accidents. Keeping a pet indoors by no means eliminates all the hazards. They can still swallow foreign objects, ingest a poison or injure themselves. As well, living indoors does not make a pet immune to disease and infection - particularly those that are common to their breed. Pets with access to the outdoors have even more opportunities to pick up a disease or get hurt.

Don't have a dog or cat? Insurance companies are starting to offer plans that meet the needs of a variety of pet owners. Some now offer coverage for birds and exotic animals.

Not all owners are good candidates for pet insurance, however. Pet insurance is ideal for owners who deeply love their pets and are willing to spend a significant amount of money to keep them healthy and extend their life. They buy their cherished companions the best food and care they can afford, sometimes even putting their pets' needs before their own. For this type of owner, pet insurance can be a smart investment that can prevent considerable costs and bring peace of mind.

Pet insurance is not a good investment for owners who don't have a strong emotional tie to their pet. Owners who would rather have their pets euthanized than spend money on vet bills are not good candidates for pet insurance.

Step two: Decide What Type of Coverage You Want

Most pet owners will weigh two main considerations when shopping for pet insurance: budget and coverage. Peace of mind can also be an important factor, but far more difficult to quantify.

Pet health insurance is still relatively new in the United States and Canada, so the options available are fewer than for other forms of insurance. That said, North American pet owners can choose from a variety of coverage choices, ranging from injury/accident-only to all-inclusive.

As with all insurance products, the cost of pet insurance increases as the coverage improves. As a pet owner, you must decide what is the right balance between affordability and the care you want for your pet.

- Coverage

When choosing pet insurance coverage, first consider what kind of insurance customer you are. Do you prefer all-inclusive coverage that pays for everything from routine checkups and vaccinations to accidents and chronic illnesses, or are you comfortable with a lesser degree of coverage that just kicks in during emergencies? Perhaps you prefer a flexible plan that offers discounts on a wide range of services, from veterinary care to training. This decision will lay the groundwork for your final choice.

Some issues to consider:

* Make sure to check for coverage of pre-existing conditions as well as breed-specific genetic ailments, such as hip dysplasia for large dogs. Some plans refuse to cover these conditions.

* Some plans place limits on annual, per-incident, per-illness or lifetime costs.

* How old is your pet? Coverage usually starts at eight weeks, but some plans won't cover pets over a certain age (usually between six and 10 years old, depending on the breed, type of animal and other factors).

- Cost

Payment options for pet insurance include flat fees or deductibles and/or co-payments. Not surprisingly, plans with lower monthly premiums come with higher deductibles and/or larger co-payments.

Some issues to consider:

* Insurance premiums are affected by the age, health and breed of your pet, as well as the type of animal.

* Some plans offers discounts for multiple pets.

* Plans generally require customers to pay the vet bill first and then submit receipts for reimbursement.

* Find out if the insurance premiums will increase as your pet ages.

* Depending on the plan you choose, the monthly premiums can range from less than $10 to about $40.

Step three: Choose an Insurer

You've determined what you can afford to spend and the amount of pet insurance coverage you want.

Before selecting an insurer, here are some final considerations:

* Make a list of your questions and priorities in advance. Make sure to answer or check off each item when reviewing plan options.

* Research the insurer thoroughly. Review its website and sales materials, read its testimonials, talk to other pet owners and look for on-line reviews. How long has the company been in business? Are its customers satisfied? Make sure you feel comfortable about everything you hear or read.

* Compare the plan's benefit schedule with your vet's fees to determine to what degree the plan will cover the actual treatment costs.

* Find out how quickly the insurance company reimburses customers' claim payments and if it has claim deadlines.

* Read the fine print. Make sure you completely understand the plan's benefits and, more importantly, the limitations. If something isn't clear, ask - and get the answer in writing. Otherwise, you might find you don't have the coverage you need if an accident occurs.

* Start a file for your pet. Use it for all receipts and insurance paperwork so you can keep on top of your claims and make sure you are maximizing your insurance investment.

Your responsibility as a pet owner doesn't end with food, shelter and affection. Pet health insurance can give the smallest member of your family a longer and healthier life - and provide you with more time to enjoy the unconditional love it so willingly offers to you.

Burke Jones is a frequent contributor to Pet Health Depot [http://www.pet-health-depot.com].